Duomo
The English novelist D.H. Lawrence called the Duomo " an
imitation hedgehog of a cahedral", because of its pointy
intricate exterior. But in side, the church is simple, majestic
and vast. Milano's navel, Piazza del Duomo, has the atmosphere
of London's Piccadilly Circus and much more interesting architecture.
The cathedral was commissioned in 1386 and is the world's fourth-largest
church. The late-Gothic wonder features a forest of spires and
statuary, marble pinnacles and pillars, all woven together with
a web of flying buttresses. A gilded copper statue of the Madonna
rises above the myriad vertices, distracting awed observers from
the church's most interesting omission: The duomo has no bell
tower.
The duomo's finest relic is a nail purportedly used to pin Jesus
to a cross all those years ago. Every September, the Archbishop
of Milan retrieves the sacred bit of metal from its perch high
above the nave and presents it to an adoring (or at least curious)
congregation.
The neighboring Museo del Duomo chronicles the church's six centuries
and displays an interesting collection of art and artifacts.
Cenacolo Vinciano
Leonardo da Vinci captured the Bible's most poignant moment, The
Last Supper, in an experimental mix of tempera and oil. The paint
has been steadily peeling from the walls of this convent since
1498. Waves of restoration have removed all but an echo of the
master's brushstrokes, but that's enough. It's a powerful piece
of work.
To visit the refectory of the Convento di Santa Maria delle Grazie,
where the painting was most recently restored in 1999, you'll
need to plan ahead. To join a group of 25 (sluiced through every
15 minutes), book weeks in advance by phone and get ready to give
your credit card a workout. There are tales of travelers who managed
to get in without making prior arrangements, but such miracles
seem reserved for the truly faithful.
Castello Sforzesco
At the northeastern end of the lovely Via Dante, which intersects
the Piazza del Duomo, looms the imposing Castello Sforzesco. Originally
a military fortress, it was completely remodeled by more comfort-minded
Francesco Sforza. The new and improved defenses were designed
by Leonardo da Vinci.
The castle houses a collection of modern museums that are well-stocked
with impressive antiquities. The excellent sculpture collection
includes Michelangelo's Piet? Rondanini. There are also paintings
by Bellini, Tiepolo, Mantegna, Correggio, Titian and Van Dyck.
If you get bored with Italian masters, the collection of Egyptian
artifacts should prove distracting.
Behind the castle, Parco Sempione is a 47-hectare (116-acre) park
with plenty of places to stroll and an interesting (if a bit dilapidated)
arena that was inaugurated by Napoleon.
Teatro alla Scala
Rising above Piazza della Scala (itself dominated by a monument
dedicated to da Vinci) is the renowned Teatro alla Scala. La Scala,
as it is commonly known, first raised its curtain in 1778 and
has treated generations of opera aficionados to arias aplenty
over the years.
The theater was heavily damaged by bombs during WWII, but reopened
in 1946 under the baton of famed composer Arturo Toscanini, who
had returned to Milan after an eight-year stint as director of
the New York Philharmonic.
The adjoining Museo Teatrale alla Scala boasts such curiosities
as Verdi's death mask (complete with the maestro's facial hairs).
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